Introduction:
There is a trick question teachers in Northwest Indiana love to include in quizzes in government classes: Who is the governor of Indiana? It's a sure bet some kids are going to get it wrong because many will name the governor of Illinois.

It's not that they're not bright, but they are operating under a handicap. Children living in this corner of Indiana may never see their governor on television, because every day the dominant TV and radio news carry stories about Illinois's political leaders, about Chicago sports teams, and about Chicago's suburbs.

This is the part of Indiana where kids grow up dreaming they'll play for the Chicago Bears and Bulls, not the Indianapolis Colts and Pacers. This is that region of Greater Chicago that is not in Illinois, but is still so closely tied to Chicago that some Northwest Indiana cities continue Chicago's system of numbering streets by how many blocks they are from the Loop. Efforts to market the area by some businesses have dubbed it "Chicago's neighboring south shore."

To local residents, though, much of Northwest Indiana is simply known as the Calumet Region, or just "the Region" for short. It's a name that dates back centuries, to the time when Native Americans walked through the tall grass that covered much of the land south of the mighty dunes. When you hear people talk about "Regionites" or "Region Rats," they're talking about the local natives. As you move east, people start to refer to the area as "Duneland" or finally "Michiana" because of the closeness to southern Michigan.

Welcome to Northwest Indiana. A decade ago the area was derided as another notch on the rust belt, a relic of an industrial age that is long gone. People didn't move here, the stories said. This was a place to move from, and people left in droves.

But not any more.

The industries that founded places like Gary and Portage are still there, and people are no longer fleeing. All three of the counties featured in this book have seen population growth in recent years. The communities are growing in other ways, too—expanding their cultural offerings and embracing their history.

So who is this book for? People who already live here and are looking for something to do on the weekend? Chicagoans who turn up their noses at ever venturing down into "Hoosierville"? Vacationers from Indianapolis, Detroit, or Cleveland who will pass through Northwest Indiana en route to Chicago?

I hope all those groups find something useful in these pages.

There are some surprises here even for those who have called the Calumet Region home all their lives. There are people in Hammond who have never taken in the beauty of Valparaiso's historic Opera House, and Michigan City dwellers who don't know about Marktown, the tiny village in East Chicago that was created as a company town. In addition to a list of things to see and do, I've tried to include details about the local history, architecture, geography, and whatever else is worth knowing about this corner of Indiana.

Defining "Northwest Indiana" isn't an exact science. For purposes of this book, I've focused on the three counties that hug the southern tip of Lake Michigan—Lake, Porter, and LaPorte. Good arguments might be made for considering some of the counties south of these three, or counties that are further east. But Lake, Porter, and LaPorte are the largest; they all have beaches, good restaurants, shopping, and plenty of entertainment options.

The book includes an introduction to each, and information about what you'll find in the major communities located there. Visitors who think Indiana is only home to cows, corn, and basketball will be surprised at the range of offerings for a variety of tastes, including a symphony, museums, and one of the most popular theaters in the Midwest.

Many communities claim a part of the lakeshore, so that distinctive stretch of sand and forest gets its own chapter. As does riverboat gaming, the attraction that has brought millions of visitors to the area in recent years. There are also sections on transportation, to make getting around easier; media, so you can find out what's happening; golf courses; and antique stores.

When choosing restaurants to recommend, I've avoided the national chains. The area has its share of Applebee's, Bennigan's, Chuck E. Cheeses, and the like, and visitors already know what to expect from these. I have tried to list some of the area's most impressive restaurants, along with details on what foods they're known for and how kid-friendly they are. The area has plenty of great places to eat, and some have surely escaped my notice. So don't assume that because some place isn't mentioned it's no good.

There are also maps included with each county. Northwest Indiana is one of those urban areas so packed with cities and towns that in a 20-minute drive you can easily pass through a half-dozen of them.

Every county has its own visitors bureau. Phone numbers are included in each county's introduction. If you need help planning a weekend in the region, want details on upcoming shows, or just need to know when Whiting's next Pierogi Festival is or the date of the upcoming Oz Fest in Michigan City, give these folks a call.

Still not convinced? OK, it’s time to dispel The Five Myths about Northwest Indiana:

Myth 1.
It's so far from Chicago, who has time to drive there?
It's not far from Chicago—Chicago's Southeast Side actually runs up against Hammond. There are many places in the northwest corner of Hammond where you can cross the street and be in Chicago. Via the Skyway (the eight-story toll road that runs from Hammond to the city) you can be in the heart of the Loop in 30 minutes. Contrast that with a Chicago suburb like Naperville, where the commute can run 45 minutes or more on a good day.

Myth 2.
It's all steel mills and heavy industry; who would want to go there?
The steel mills here produce more steel than any other part of the country. And it's no secret that in an earlier period their owners leveled dunes and tore up the lakeshore to establish themselves. But in recent decades, industrialists and environmentalists have worked to coexist. The mills and other industry have established natural habitats on their land and spent millions of dollars and donated time for preservation efforts.

Would the lakeshore look even better if off in the distance you couldn't see the twinkling lights at the Burns Harbor refinery? Sure. But the mills aren't going anywhere, and to stay away because of them means depriving yourself of seeing an incredible natural wonder.

Myth 3.
Aren't the big cities there scary places where gangs rule the streets?
Some of the cities have had crime problems, just like any urban area. And just like places like Chicago, New York, Cleveland, or Kansas City, there are some areas you don't wander around if you don't know where you're going. So don't just pick a neighborhood and decide to check out some architecture you've heard about at 2 A.M.! But this isn't the Old West, and people aren't walking around with guns strapped to their hips waiting to shoot it out. The crime rate in most communities here has dropped dramatically in recent years.

The bottom line: Most places in Northwest Indiana are safe, comfortable, and filled with friendly people.

Myth 4.
It's a cultural wasteland, and if you want to have fun, don't you have to go to Chicago?
Chicago is the greatest city on earth (in the author's limited experience globe hopping), and it's hard to compete with its sports, museums, and other attractions. But if you're looking for a fun evening it doesn't mean you have to head to the Loop. Some of the Chicago area's best restaurants are in Northwest Indiana, which also happens to be home to great nightspots, history, theater, casino gaming, challenging golf courses, and a rich history.

Once they get off the expressways and into the communities, first-time visitors are often surprised by the area's ethnic and racial tapestry. Fact is, you won't find a better melting pot anywhere else in the state. Immigrants were lured here in the first half of the twentieth century by the chance to earn a living in the steel mills. In the decades since, the immigrant influx has continued.

Myth 5.
OK, so maybe it's worth coming in the summer to spend a day at the dunes and then go someplace for dinner. But who wants to come to Northwest Indiana in the dead of winter?
The dunes don't shut down in the winter, and there are plenty of reasons to visit them in January—for hikes on frosty trails and cross-country skiing. There’s also ice skating, huge sledding hills, and ice fishing. There's CBA basketball, minor league baseball, the Gary Air Show, and the Christmas display at Michigan City's Washington Park. And all those great restaurants, gambling boats, and theaters that you tried in the summer are all waiting for you the rest of the year.

Dyer:
Incorporated: January 24, 1910
Population: 13,895
Median age: 38.4
Size: 5.59 square miles

Dyer began both as a farming community and as a transportation hub for neighboring farmers who brought their crops here for access to the railroads that crisscrossed the small town.

Dyer received the maiden name of Martha Hart, whose husband, Aaron, was a land speculator. Hart, who made his money in publishing in Philadelphia, bought huge tracts of land in Lake County. In 1861 he and his family moved to the Hartsdale Farm, an 800-acre estate.

Hart improved much of his land by building a series of drainage ditches to clear the swamps. The operation grew until it employed 40 men, 14 yoke of oxen, two teams of horses, and three teams of mules. He died on January 12, 1882 when the banks of a ditch he was working in collapsed on him.

His work lives on. Hart Ditch still runs from Dyer, through Munster, and to the Little Calumet River in Highland.

Meyer's Castle
1370 Joliet St. (U.S. 30)
219/865-8452
www.meyerscastle.com
Joseph Ernest Meyer, one of Hammond's first millionaires, began building this mansion in 1929, the year of the great stock market crash. Seven decades later, it is still an impressive site. Hidden from U.S. 30 by a thick grove of trees, the castle stands on a hill above the highway. Cars pulling into the lot pass through a large gate with gargoyles perched on the top glaring at the intruders.

According to a history compiled by the current owners, the three-story castle, secluded and completed in 1931, enabled Meyer to pursue his interest in botany. He had learned about plants while growing up in a Kenosha, Wisconsin, orphanage, and amassed a fortune selling and promoting herbal medicine.

Meyer's Castle is an example of Jacobean Revival architecture and has cut Indiana limestone staircases, a red-clay slab tile roof, and carved black walnut and oak trim and paneling.
Directions: From I–80/94, exit at Indianapolis Boulevard south. At U.S. 30, turn right (west).

Experimental Highway
You might not be able to tell today, but a stretch of U.S. 30 through Dyer was once the most modern piece of roadway in the world. After Congress passed a road construction bill in 1921, an Indianapolis businessman, Carl Fisher, convinced the U.S. Rubber Co. to aid in the construction of part of the Lincoln Highway using then-modern techniques. U.S. 30, or the Lincoln Highway, is in fine shape today, but, of course, it's no longer the marvel it was in the '20s. A marker now commemorates this experiment in road construction.

Dyer Historical Society Museum
Dyer Town Hall
One Town Square
219/865-6108
www.dyeronline.com/history/index.htm
Located in the town hall, this historical museum has a nice collection of items from the town's early days. In addition to the usual photos, newspaper clippings, and yearbooks, you will find an assortment of vintage postcards depicting local scenes, and several old banking machines that date back to the 1920s and '30s.
Usually open Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–3 p.m.; Thurs. 6 p.m.–8 p.m. Call to confirm. Tours by appointment.

DINING

Rodizio's
Meyer's Castle
1370 Joliet St. (U.S. 30)
219/865-8452
For years, few people saw the interior of Meyer's Castle. At times it was rented for private parties, but most couldn't get inside without an invitation. The opening of Rodizio's changed that and brought thousands of diners for a peek inside this community jewel.

But people aren't coming here just to gawk at the dramatic ambiance. Rodizio's is one of the best restaurants in the area. The menu has a heavy Argentinean influence, but the dining experience is what makes this special. Diners don't just sit and order from a menu. There is a huge buffet that lines two ends of the room, spilling over with tapas, spit-roasted entrees, seafood delicacies, exotic salads, and fresh pasta made to order. Reservations are almost always needed. The set price of $23.50 does not include wine, dessert, tax, or tip.
Open Wed.–Sat. 5 p.m.–10 p.m.

Recreation: Christmas Trees
Northwest Indiana has several tree farms where you can choose and harvest your own tree. The Indiana Christmas Tree Growers Association provided the following list of choices:

Egolf Christmas Trees
14594 S. and 700 W.
Wanatah
219/733-2143
A good selection of Scotch and white pines, wreaths, garlands, centerpieces, and grave pieces.
Open year round. Directions: About three miles past U.S. 421 on U.S. 30. At County Road 700 West go south about 2.5 miles. Signs are posted.

Guse Christmas Trees
14685 S. and 600 W.
Wanatah
219/733-9346
White and Scotch pines; Douglas, Fraser, and Canaan firs; wreaths; and garlands.
Directions: Go about four miles east of Wanatah on U.S. 30, then south on Thomaston Road (Country Road 600 west). The farm is about 2.5 miles.

Luers Christmas Tree Farm
5605 W. 91st
Crown Point
Scotch, Austrian, and white pines; Douglas, Canaan, and Fraser firs; spruce; and wreaths.
Directions: From U.S. 30, head south on Burr. The farm is a half-mile west of the Burr Street and 91st Avenue intersection, just outside of Schererville.

Southard's Christmas Tree Farm
14505 Reeder Rd.
Crown Point
219/663-4675
Scotch and white pines, wreaths, pine cones, garlands, and centerpieces.
Directions: From I–65 go west on Indiana 2 to Indiana 55. North on Indiana 55 to 133rd Avenue. Go west on 133rd Avenue to Reeder Road. South on Reeder Road.

White's Tree Farm
2788 S. LaPorte County Rd. 425 W.
LaPorte
Douglas fir, spruce, wreaths, centerpieces, and grave pieces.
Directions: From I–80/90 take U.S. 39 south to Joliet Road. West on Joliet Road to County Road 425 West. Go South on CR 425 about a quarter mile.